Bodegas Muga Blanco 2017
(raised in two- and three-year-old French oak barrels of varying size) Pale green-hued yellow. Vibrant and sharply focused on the nose, displaying fresh Meyer lemon, pear and melon scents and a bracing suggestion of dusty minerality. Shows good depth and sharp delineation in the mouth, offering sappy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a hint of florality. Closes long and silky, featuring repeating mineral and citrus fruit notes and strong tenacity.
Yields for the 2017 Muga Blanco were lower, and there will be some 140,000 bottles (compared with 200,000 in the previous year) of this wine, which I tasted unbottled. The white varieties recovered better from the frost than the reds, and they behaved better in a year with a shorter vegetative cycle; however, they got extremely low yields of Maturana Blanca. The wine has good ripeness (13.2% to 13.4% alcohol) without any herbal notes. It's a bit sharp right now, but it's still a little early, as it will be kept with the lees for a further two months, and it should gain in volume during that time. The white and rosé are always sourced from higher-altitude, cooler zones (especially in the Najerilla), so these wines are always fresh. They might produce that quantity because they purchased some grapes from old vines, even though they were more expensive, to try to keep the volume.
A light color and pleasant but simple floral and white fruit aromas open this tangy Rioja that hums along with high-toned citrus flavors and snappy acidity. Grapefruit, orange and grape skin flavors take their time on a racy finish.